Pumpkins are indeed a versatile squash. The orange flesh can be pureed and made into a delicious pie. The seeds can be roasted and spiced for a tasty snack. The biggest pumpkins get entered into obesity contests. And once a year, dissected pumpkins get a candle placed inside them to lure children into a sense of security as they approach strangers for candy. One of the lesser-known uses for pumpkin, however, is beer. Pumpkin ales are quite common amongst craft brewers, with the LCBO having picked up several for this year’s seasonal Halloween release. One of these comes from the craft brewery in closest proximity to our University, Grand River Brewing in Cambridge. (No, Brick is not a craft brewery.)
Neil: For one so close to home, Dan and I have somehow avoided a beer review from Grand River. Perhaps it’s because their mandate is to create tasty beer with under 5% alcohol, which adheres to a reserved and ethical mindset when it comes to beer consumption and not “over-indulgence.” Yes, I bet the LCBO <3’s Grand River, and most likely Grand River appreciates the lower cost of brewing (aka. increased profits) associated with a minimal malt bill. Regardless of the percentages, Grand River Brewing has turned the heads and hearts of many Ontario folk in their three short years of business. Stationing themselves in a renovated 20th century industrial building (the former Galt Knife Company) in local Cambridge, their original regular lineup has been crafted to complement the natural water hardness of the area, namely the Plowman’s Red Ale. Since then, however, locally famed brew master Rob Creighton (past experience at Labatt, Lakeport, F&M, Upper Canada, etc.) has been flexing some creativity in the release of several seasonal beers, one of which is the Highballer Pumpkin Ale.
Dan: In their original incarnation, pumpkin ales can be traced back to the settling American colonies. When first wandering North America, barley was reportedly quite hard to come by. Unwilling to ditch their hard-rooted beer drinking habits, the clever Brits-turned-Americans resorted to alternative sources for the sugars necessary in brewing. In addition to molasses, parsnips, and corn, one of the sources was the juice extracted from mashed pumpkin. Regardless of the sugar source, the goal was simply to make a drinkable beer (with it being the safer alternative to water, at the time). In contrast, while still throwing chunks (or cans) of pumpkin into the boil, the goal for most modern pumpkin ales is now to simulate the flavour profile of a pumpkin pie, through the additional use of nutmeg, cinnamon, all-spice, vanilla… and whatever else is in your mom’s pumpkin pie recipe. While beer + pie may or may not sound like a great combination, I assure you, the results can be fantastic, as exemplified by favourites such as Southern Tier Pumking (a 9% pumpkin beast) and St-Ambroise Citrouille. Let’s see how the 5.2% Highballer from Grand River stacks up.
Neil’s thoughts: Pouring this beer out into the glass reveals a copper-auburn elixir of a pumpkin brew. The ghostly white head froths up and lingers (almost hauntingly) for several minutes until finally settling back. The nose is similar, in another’s words, to Starbuck’s Pumpkin Spice latte. Overall it seems like a pretty profitable idea to base a beer around, given I probably invest as much money weekly into Starbuck’s as I do groceries (a sample population of one is a pretty accurate indicator, right?)…. Oh my, apparently I need to practice better spending habits. Regardless, the complexity of the brew is evident, where I find malt and spicing (cloves especially) in good proportion. This beer is quite quaffable, however one aspect I would personally like to see changed is the mouth feel, wherein a heavier malt body might reflect and complement the harvest season. Overall, this brew lived up to more than my expectations (which were quite low for a vegetable beer), but I still believe it has more potential in years to come. Give it a try and you’ll soon agree. [3/5]
Dan’s thoughts: Although the label on this beer isn’t the most attractive (Grand River really needs to hire a graphic designer), the beer itself pours a beautiful crystal-clear orange/auburn. Taking a quick whiff from the puffy white head assures that this is going to be a spicy beverage experience. Cloves dominate the nose, but nutmeg and roasted pumpkin both play a strong role in the flavour, which ends in a light, spicy, and lingering bitterness. An enjoyable tasting experience and a well-crafted brew, but this is not quite what I look for in a pumpkin beer. Some people prefer them with subtle spicing and a light body. I, on the other hand, prefer my pumpkin beer to be as thick as the dessert that inspires it, complete with rich, full, spicy sweetness. Grand River’s Highballer, with its thin mouthfeel and somewhat excessive carbonation, lands somewhere in between these two extremes. I’d happily drink it with a turkey dinner, but I’m gonna need something with at least 50% more balls to pair up with a hearty slice of pumpkin pie. Still, this one gets marks for being pretty damn delicious in its own right. [3.5/5]
Recommended for consumption. Also seek out: Southern Tier Pumking, St-Ambroise Citrouille, Dogfish Head Punkin Ale
Props to hops // Dan and Neil
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