Welcome back to Seams Unusual, where interesting and uncommon alternative fashions are handed the spotlight. Each issue will delve into the distinguishing features of the unique style, a short history on how the fashion was born, and tips on how you can start putting together your own alternative outfit.
This issue we will cover the fantastically humble and adorably versatile “mori kei”, translating roughly to “forest origin” or “forest style” fashion.
Featuring mostly earthy-toned colours (think of mossy greens and rich browns) with an emphasis on creams and whites, this style aims to exude the feeling of a fairy living in a forest, or an easygoing personality who resides in a woodland cottage. Solids are chosen over patterned fabrics more often than not, but when prints are used they are usually very simple and give off an old-fashioned vibe, such as ginghams, checks, tartans, plaids, and florals. To make up for the plain material, details like lace, pin tucks, and ruffles are added in abundance. Mori accessories are either treasures scouted from quaint antique shops, or handmade creations cobbled together from odds and ends of a sewing drawer or featuring woodland motifs (fawns, rabbits, and wildflowers are especially popular). The materials in mori kei also tend to the natural side, favouring cottons, wool knits, (faux) fur, and (faux) leather, and shying from polyesters, vinyl, and other synthetics.
The most important focuses of the anatomy of a mori style outfit are that they are 1) not form-fitting, and 2) noticeably and strategically layered. Mori fashion rebels from the modern trends of showing skin and tight clothes; it is meant to be comfortable, floaty, ethereal, and suited for long, thoughtful walks in the great outdoors. It is not uncommon to buy a size or two up from your fitted size, and layer, for instance, a shawl over a cardigan over a mid-thigh dress over a knee-length skirt over a mid-calf skirt. If done correctly, the finished ensemble will be nothing short of enchanting. A pair of low-heeled, round-toed walking shoes and an extravagantly decorated bag complete the look.
Since it leans more towards the comfortable and functional side of fashion (without losing any of the style, of course), makeup and hair in mori kei is one of the least fussy aspects compared to most other trendy and alternative fashions. Leaving hair undyed, down, using natural means of creating loose curls or waves, or putting it back in messy braids suits this fairy tale look just fine. Cosmetics can also be minimum effort and with natural colours; bare-faced is always an option, or light foundation, tinted chapstick, and a pencil liner will do. The one extravagant part of a mori’s makeup should be kept to their blush: a round, pigmented flush is reminiscent of the dolls mori followers played with as children, or admired in the variety of antique stores they’ve visited.
Although it seems to be a unique and intricate fashion, mori kei has a few closely related predecessors in which it drew inspiration from. Natural kei, dolly kei, and shabby chic all hit the scene at least a few years before mori kei reached recognition. The birth of mori kei is actually documented, having been posted in 2006 as a checklist of the do’s and dont’s of this subculture by its founder, a user by the name Choco on the Japanese social networking site MIXI. Now the mori community thinks of Choco’s hard checklist as more of a set of general guidelines – this opens of the fashion and lifestyle to more people, making it an accessible and inclusive style.
Since its beginnings, mori kei has experienced a growth in popularity largely due to clothing labels and print magazines revolving solely around it. Notably, the brand Wonder Rocket and the magazine Spoon had their time on the streets of Harajuku, the centre of all things J-fashion. With the emergence of webstores carrying mori-inclined brands and print magazines moving to digital formats, the mori subculture became more accessible to the rest of the world, especially North America.
Even if finding Japanese-based mori brands on the Internet is potentially expensive or difficult, the versatility, thriftiness, and DIY nature of mori kei makes it extremely easy for westerners to adopt. Many plain, earthy pieces of oversized garments can be found for cheap at vintage consignment shops and thrift stores. With a needle, thread, and a handful of crocheted lace and wooden buttons, any piece can be given a mori makeover in a matter of minutes. Accessories in this alternative lifestyle are usually handmade, and use bits and bobs from trimmings and sewing notions that would otherwise be thrown away. As a bonus, this adheres very well to a mori’s most important value: nature. Keeping old clothes and spare materials out of landfills and avoiding fast fashion when possible are easy and chic ways to help the environment.
When putting together an outfit for the first time, there is an easy method to follow, created for the J-fashion publication Nth Magazine:
- Start with a plain, baggy dress.
- Layer a long, flowing skirt underneath
- Add a cozy cardigan on top to help hide your figure
- Throw on a lace shawl for a softer feel
- Add low, round-toed shoes and a quirky bag
That’s it! Accessories, makeup, and other layers can be added as you get more of a feel for the fashion and its direction. Another perk of mori kei is its ability to be worn in any climate. Simply add or subtract layers, or swap out heavier or light materials as needed. Mori kei is less about rules and more about comfort and functionality, making it nearly effortless to try for yourself.
If this style appeals to you, I would highly suggest trying it. It’s cheap, beautiful, and undeniably versatile and accessible. As a strong plus, its layering means that you only need a handful of pieces for an infinite number of combinations and outfits. For co-op students who move every four months and lug their wardrobe around with them each time, this is an irresistible lifesaver! Take it from a (mori) girl who knows.
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