In many parts of the world, poverty is recognizable by the number of sets of clothes you own. The more articles of clothing you own, the less poor you are. Cheap, affordable clothing for some people can be a status symbol, while for others it is an important part of expressing yourself. No matter what clothing means to you, when someone loses their life in the process it is time for a pause.
The tragic collapse of a plaza housing garment factories and shops in Bangladesh on April 24 has brought the true meaning of cheap prices to the forefront of first world consumers radar. As the final body count levels out around 650 the questions are beginning. How could this have happened, and more importantly, how can we keep this from happening again?
In retrospect what happened in Bangladesh was inevitable. Substandard materials, the addition of three unofficial floors and vibrating machinery from five garment factories caused cracks to appear in the building. Despite a building inspection which caused police to order an evacuation, the building workers were assured that it was in fact safe and were told to go to work. The Plaza owner Mohammed Sohel Rana allegedly assured garment factory managers that it was safe just hours before the buildings collapse.
This brings about what is perhaps the biggest question: Who is to blame for this tragedy? Consumers whose desire for ever-cheaper products seems to increase every year? Companies who at best may not look too far past their balance sheets and at worst sweep the knowledge of dangerous working conditions under the carpet? Governments who foster corruption and value GDP over the well-being of the citizens? While everyone has some responsibility, how do we find an effective way to create change? Will companies try to take advantage of socially minded patrons by charging more but changing little? These are the questions companies like Joe Fresh, Walmart and H&M among others are asking themselves. Stay and help foster social change in a struggling country, or cut their losses and relocate to somewhere where labour is cheaper and they are out of the scrutiny of the public eye.
It is desperation primarily which makes people work in dangerous situations. In a place where people work 18 hour days not to get ahead but simply to survive social change is difficult when there are few other options. For many of the workers a garment industry job that involves working in what some might consider to be sweatshop conditions is the difference between feeding their loved ones and going hungry. In many ways this reflects Canada’s struggles for unionisation and worker rights shortly after the industrial revolution. It is difficult to improve working conditions because employees who cause problems can be easily replaced. Furthermore if costs begin to rise too much, garment companies might simply choose to produce clothing in a different, cheaper country with cheaper labour costs.
These days we seem to want both social responsibility and reasonable prices from our favourite brands. However it is difficult to weed out the caring companies from the indifferent ones based on prices alone. Expensive name brands are just as likely to have clothing items produced in Bangladesh factories as bargain brands. Because of widespread corruption on the ground it is often difficult to get the real story.
The solution will likely be a group effort, greater oversight from the global community and encouragement for country officials to act in a less corrupt manner. Companies may need to invest in their factories more because the countries themselves cannot provide the social assistance some people need to stand up and say no to unsafe conditions. Poverty may not be a thing of the past, in fact it will certainly be a part of the future, but disasters like this one in Bangledesh should be a wake-up call for people to invest in their neighbors, not just pick up and leave for the next cheapest place. As engineers, we in particular have the responsibility to take a hard look at our professional decisions. Sure a part might be cheaper, but what corners got cut to make them that way?
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