Following suit with the last article on aviators, there’s a crucial piece of clothing that just burns brightly to match. That’s right, I’m talking about that iconic look that spells cool from every angle: the leather jacket. Worn by people of all walks of life, the leather jacket never really faded from the limelight. It has been sported by military men, actors and actresses, and of course rockers throughout the ages.
Although leather use has existed for ages, dating all the way back to the Roman Empire, the modern leather jacket did not appear until the 1910s. The original pilots and aviators of World War I wore leather jackets to fight the strong wind and cold of high altitude. Over time, these brown aviator jackets evolved into the Bomber Jacket that we know today.
In 1928, Irving Schott designed and produced what became known as the iconic Biker’s Leather Jacket. The jacket was sold at a Long Island Harley Davidson distributor for only $5.50, an astonishing contrast to today’s +$500 jackets. The jacket appealed not only to bikers but to the general public as well; it became the symbol for danger, adventure, and excitement.
By World War II, the bomber jacket returned to play with pilots once more braving the cold altitudes alongside the heat of war. Leather jackets were adopted wholesale by the military, and it was not uncommon to see a soldier sporting one across Europe. The end of the war brought the jackets to homes in North America and Europe. Many of the former enlisted took on the look, and the leather jacket remained part of many wardrobes.
At the dawn of rock and roll and the 50s, the leather jacket reached an all new status. The leather jacket became increasingly popular amongst teenagers, and it became the quintessential look for the cool guy-bad boy act. The look was mainly popularized by the likes of actor and racer James Dean (whose iconic look featured him in a black leather jacket with slicked hair) and the rebellious leather jacket wearing heartthrob and king of Rock ‘N’ Roll, Elvis Presley. Subsequently, many school systems across North America banned the leather jacket because of its association with the rebellious teenage demographic.
Many rock stars since the 50s helped popularize the leather jacket. Prior to wearing their crisp, clean suits, even the Beatles wore black leather jackets. The 70s and 80s saw the leather jacket as the symbol for the underground punk rock movement. Bands like the Ramones, Blondie, and the Sex Pistols were all known for sporting leather jackets.
The years and the changing world have seen a rise in variety in leather jackets. Many other jacket types have evolved from the original bomber and biker jackets while still keeping the attitude, protection, and durability that they were initially known for.
The first of the most common leather jackets is known as the Flight Jacket or Bomber Jacket. Known as the father of all leather jackets, these originated from the First World War and were designed for plane crews. They were made for insulation and warmth, and typically have roomy flap side pockets. These are often zipped straight up front.
The iconic bad-boy biker jacket is known as the Double Rider or Motorcycle Jacket. Usually containing multiple pockets and large spreading lapels, the jacket is made for travel on the road. It is often designed to zip at an angle and have a protective flap behind the zipper to protect against strong winds seeping through the jacket.
A popular jacket in the racing world, known as Motocross or “Moto” Jackets, are fitted, streamlined jackets. Often giving a very clean look with few or no pockets, these jackets were popularized by professional racing. These jackets zip straight up and are usually much thinner than other styles of leather jackets.
Leather jackets come in different grades and hides. The most common divisions, from best to worst quality, are: Full Grain, Top Grain, Genuine Leather, and Bonded Leather. These four divisions, along with the inclusion of synthetic material, make up the leather jackets you see in today’s market.
Full Grain and Top Grain grades are often expensive and top of line, and are made of the whole outer hide of the animal. These provide the longest lasting and sturdiest of leather jackets, and are often preferred.
Genuine Leather are the most common jackets at a mid-price range, and refers to leather made from the inner hide of an animal. Genuine Leather is less durable than the aforementioned Full and Top Grain, and often feels thinner depending on the construction.
Bonded Leather is often cheap, low-quality material made from segments of different leather that is pressed down and chemically bonded. This grade is less durable compared to the other grades due to its construction from mixed leather pieces.
Synthetic leather material also exists in the market, and is often much cheaper than the other options. These are often certified to be animal by-product free, and require little to no maintenance in comparison to animal hide leather.
Just as there are many grades of leather, the possibilities for different animal hides are extensive. The most common leather is made from cows, which is known as steer hide. Often a by-product of slaughtering for meat, steer hides are strong and usually very stiff. Jackets made from steer hide require a long break in period, but also last very long. Bison and horsehide are also common materials for leather jackets that provide much the same qualities as steer hide.
Lighter materials for leather jackets include deerskin, goatskin, and lambskin. Often the choice for cool or warmer weather, these provide nice mid-season jackets. These are often much more supple in comparison, and do not feel as stiff as hides like steer hide. For example, lambskin often provides the smoothest and softest of leather jackets. The downside to these materials is they are often not as durable as steer or bison.
In a little over a hundred years, leather jackets traveled from simply being a functional, sturdy jacket to an immortalized look that is known throughout the globe. Over the years, leather jackets have seen fluctuating waves of popularity and sales, but they endured to make it to modern day. Today, there are thousands of different styles to choose from, including many new and unconventional looks that have risen from the original jacket. Its impact is certainly one that is undeniably powerful. Be part of the journey and grab one today; it’s certainly one look that’s sure to be played again and again.
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